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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.